Day 2 June 17 Castro Urdalies to Liendo 16.22 miles walked
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Exploring Castro Urdales |
Lots of sheep fighting over a sliver of shade |
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Night life in Castro Urdiales |

Alone
There are no pilgrims
The cats sunning themselves
In front of the castle
where the arrows split offer
unintelligible advice
Bonito: “Are you going to Bilbao?”
“No”
“Come with me I am walking to meet a friend at the cafe
I will show you”
Spanish Italian world traveler retired here daily walking
The first hour passes quickly
Big hug cheeks kissed
Alone
There are no pilgrims
Passing the albergue
Overflow tents in the yard
Everyone vacated hours ago
At the top of the first slope
Hiacinto
Shepherd leaving his flock
Insists “take my staff”
“I have poles” (how do you say “polls”)
Gesturing to my pack
Heavy sturdy implement
This is meant to be today’s walking stick.
Alone
Where are the pilgrims?
“Peregrina loca” the old ladies returning from the beach
respond to my greeting
They have no idea!
Highway turns to trail to road to trail
Alone
Where are the pilgrims?
Along the cliffs below a single speck
A fishing boat
The Billy Joel lyric starts to play
A song unremembered
“Goodnight my Angel” …
“Like a boat out on the ocean I’m rocking you to sleep the waters dark and deep
Inside this sacred heart I know you’ll always be a part of me”
It will take time and repetition before the message is revealed
Alone
Where are the pilgrims?
Another speck
Where the cliffs touch the sea
It is a big horned sheep grazing
Navigating unaccompanied
Through a far more treacherous space
Alone
Donde están los peregrinos?
The signs the graffiti
This isolation is the mirage
Tortilla in the village square
“A large group just left”
It is a siesta-ghost town
Unseen, is it them or is it me?
Highway cyclist
Tourist traffic
Ocean to the right
Mountains to the left
Check the maps the GPS
The road is never-ending
At the roadside bar
Luke from Bareclona
Susie from San Fransisco
On the highway the frazzled New Yorker
They are stopping here
I have energy its early afternoon
The guide book even describes a shortcut
Dangerous tempting
A lesson yet to be learned
There are no shortcuts
Don’t be fooled
The narrow shoulders and asphalt back of steep highway
Trucks and tour busses
The swoosh of speed as they sped past
Hour upon hour
Up and up and up
Counting steps
The stick is heavy but I’m attached
The sun now in head on assault
Navigating rural routes through neighborhoods
Two kilometers a marathon
The vine covered plaza the steeple of the church
Mari-lyn
Frieda
The Germans
Deanna from Poland
David the Yogi
The hot head posse of
noisy middle aged Italian cyclist
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